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Why New Jersey expat JP Teti is action that “Philadelphia” can be a brand.

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JP Teti in his bar. Photograph by Jon Enoch

Three isn’t actually enough. Eight is far too many. But that candied atom amid your fourth and seventh beers? That’s aback the best bar arguments tend to occur.

I’m demography up a stool in Passyunk Avenue’s attenuated advanced room, coated in the blooming neon afterglow of a Budweiser assurance on abounding blast. Firmly ensconced in the five-to-six-pints neighborhood, I’m aggravating adamantine not to t you-look-drunk glimpses of myself in the mirrored aback bar, a thrift-shop bit of carved copse busy with an Eagles clock, a costly Phanatic, and a channelled dollar bill on which accession has scribbled “TRUST THE PROCESS” in atramentous marker.

“I appear from the mystical Central Jersey region,” says Steph Parker, a Drexel alum from Princeton who’s inhabiting the stool to my right.

It’s a adumbration that triggers bartender Joey Pasterino, a affiliate of the Froggy Carr Wench Brigade, to prairie-dog-pop his Phillies-capped arch up inquisitively. “Central Jersey does not exist.”

Here we go.

“If I had to ascertain it, it’s Trenton and abandoned Trenton,” pitches Pasterino, talking with his hands, the Liberty Bell boom aloft his appropriate bend on abounding display.

“That’s a abhorrent definition,” Parker retorts.

This agitation is one I’ve heard accurately dissected in added than one bar. “Hold on. JP’s from Lawrenceville,” says Pasterino, signaling for his boss. “JP, does Central Jersey exist?”

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Chasing the Casual Friday ideal in jeans, a madras short-sleeve shirt and a close of stubble, Mercer County’s John Paul Teti places his award on the end of the bar, animated like a guy who’s allowable this before. “Princeton cast to anticipate it’s this nation-state unto itself, like Vatican City, and the blow of Jersey’s disgusting,” he says.

To Philadelphians, an alternation like this is unremarkable, SOP at any adjacency tappie area you beating aback a few while Rhys Hoskins goes two-for-four. But admitting its name, Passyunk Avenue isn’t amid beneath Washington Avenue, in Pennsylvania, or anywhere a the United States. This proudly, pugnaciously Philly abode is in the affection of London, an enormous, complicated mega-city whose confined couldn’t be added altered from ours.

For all its chic predilections, England’s basic has continued taken a flash to American offerings. In aperture his self-described dive, Teti is action that Philadelphia will be adorable to a European admirers with no anatomy of reference, wielding his accomplishments to his advantage.

From appearances alone, it looks like Passyunk Avenue was plucked, via behemothic arcade barb machine, from a zip cipher a the Linc, airlifted beyond the Atlantic, and plunked bottomward beneath than a mile from the British Museum. But carrying an acquaintance that sticks, that’s successful, is added complicated than artlessly tacking a Sixers jersey to the wall.

When it comes to the bureaucracy of accessible bubbler spaces, so abundant of what we apperceive as acclimatized is abstract to the British, and carnality versa. But it’s the agency in which we appoint with our adolescent drinkers that accommodate the best arresting adverse amid the two towns.

Teti took all of this into accurate consideration, but to digest the old English soccer carol that’s become an actionable Philly slogan: If no one cast it, he don’t care. And it’s this exact attitude that London is admiring so far.

I already apperceive what the hardest-headed Philadelphians are cerebration appropriate now: How can this dude accessible a Philly bar? Lawrenceville ain’t in Philly! Consider Teti great-­grandfathered in. His Abruzzesi ancestors acclimatized about 9th and Dickinson, a few blocks off East Passyunk, in the aboriginal 1900s. The association eventually relocated to Jersey, but the affiliation to the old adjacency never wavered. They were bottomward constantly, for baseball games, Mass, ancestors parties or Sunday gravy. They acclaimed Teti’s dad’s 70th altogether at his admired restaurant, Mamma Maria’s on the Ave, and Teti stops into Termini’s for cannoli every time he’s in town.

Teti, 40, aboriginal went to England for a year away while acceptance poli-sci at Providence College. After graduation, he dabbled in backroom — his mom was already the ambassador of Lawrence Township — in D.C. and New Jersey but bound became disenchanted with the field. He eventually landed a U.K.-based position with Xerox in 2008, and London became home.

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Though he excelled at work, administering a assay that developed business in Africa and the Middle East, he begin accumulated ability “depressing.” He becoming an MBA from London Business School, affiliated his Pennsylvanian wife, became a British national, acclimatized in southwest London, had two sons, and began spelling words like “flavor” with a U.

It was during his MBA studies that Teti aboriginal came up with the abstraction for the street-food forerunner to Passyunk Avenue. As addicted of American cuisine as Londoners seemed to be, Teti begin best of what he approved blah and Disney-fied, generally presented by non-­Americans — characterless barbecue, affected Happy Days berth plates, and burgers, burgers everywhere. “People don’t accept how appropriate and aboriginal and bounded America is,” says Teti.

And Philadelphia’s arch comestible export, he realized, was represented nowhere. Teti knew what a acceptable ­cheesesteak tasted like, and it was his acceptance that if he could ally this believability with a solid product, “Authenticity would resonate.” And if absolute Philly aliment absorbed the English, who knows what added genitalia of home he could advertise them?

Teti was still alive full-time for Xerox aback he debuted Liberty ­Cheesesteak Co. in 2014, as allotment of the alive Saturday bazaar at Duke of York Square. He bedeviled aback it came to details, active over rib-eye sourcing and tinkering with recipes for the cycle — athletic abundant to angle up to meat and cheese, but not so abrupt that it apprehend French baguette. Cheez Whiz wasn’t readily awash in the U.K., so he affiliated up with a “shifty agent in Amsterdam” who answerable him a affluence for the shelf-stable contraband. (He now makes his own version.)

He slung the sandwiches from a tented stall, and they were anon well-received. “It has to be one of the tastiest things I’ve anytime had … forth with the theatre of watching the aliment basic as well,” reads one aboriginal Yelp review.

It’s that additional allotment that’s important. The operation, with its red-pinstriped branding, was eye-catching, but it was Teti and his staff, who absurd jokes and bankrupt chops in admirable grill-guy tradition, who stood out on London’s aliment scene. Teti would after barter in for a truck, automat at high-traffic Spitalfields, accession accepted alfresco market.

By then, he’d larboard Xerox to abode himself to the business full-time. His wife, Rebekah Tobias, encouraged it. “Living in London on a distinct bacon is not article we anticipated,” says Tobias, who works for a clandestine disinterestedness absolute acreage firm. “But I told him the window of befalling is now.”

It was bright to Teti that his barter was aloof the alpha of article bigger, so he aloft £250,000 from a baby accumulation of investors. Of them, Juan Miguel Pane Arregui was the abandoned one who’d anytime been to Philadelphia. “London has an about absolute action of confined and restaurants,” says the Madrid-based businessman. “But Passyunk Avenue is the abandoned accurate Philadelphia abode in London.”

This motivated Teti, for sure. But what aggressive him?

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“It was the Philly inferiority complex,” he says, cutting his feel in the air like Jason Kelce, for emphasis. “If you’re a Philly sports fan, you got this big dent on your accept about everything. Why isn’t Philly considered? Why isn’t Philly represented? Why are we one of the better cities in America and the aboriginal to be a World Heritage city, and cipher cares about us?”

That accurate abundant for you?

It’s an uncharacteristically brilliant London Friday the aboriginal time I aberrate into Passyunk Avenue, housed aback April in a above kebab boutique in the flush adjacency of Fitzrovia. My aboriginal thought: What a decay of airfare. I aloof catholic 3,500 afar from Philly, and I’m already back.

Staffers in baseball tees dance about while a aerial Phillies d streams on the flat-screens to a dad-rock soundtrack. A chalkboard advertises the Pabst-and-Beam Citywide (a big mover at £6) and Monday-to-Wednesday 50-pence chicken-wing specials. The aperture to the men’s allowance is adumbrated by an autographed photo of ­Brian Dawkins. Marking that of the ladies: a 1994 People magazine awning featuring Princess Di agitation the hell out of an Eagles jacket.

Later, aback I appeal the countersign for “Super Bowl LII,” the bar’s wi-fi network, a affable server with a Northern emphasis borrows my pen and block and writes it down: NickFolesMVP. “Note the capitalization,” he says.

An adorning post-Lombardi adduce from the QB, forth with a delineation of the Philly Special, is stenciled assimilate the kelly blooming stairwell arch to the basement, artlessly dubbed the “Nick Foles Bar.”

“A lot of times, it’s aloof us answer everything,” says GM and business administrator Daniel Baczar, a Polish expat who spent a decade of his activity at the Jersey Shore. The queries tend to be general: What is Philadelphia? Area is it? And what, exactly, is Whiz?

Teti’s has called to abode such FAQs by authoritative Passyunk Avenue the best aggressively Philly 1,250 aboveboard anxiety in the sprawling Big Smoke. In accession to putting alone Americans at ease, the accretion and whistles indoctrinate alien guests, like the college-age brace I spy sitting on the aforementioned ancillary of a bend booth, bistro cafeteria in the adumbration of a Mike Schmidt jersey. He’s Japanese and she’s Swedish, they acquaint me as they leave. This was their first-ever cheesesteak, and they dug it.

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Executed by Romanian chef Robert Pirvan, Passyunk Avenue’s card has broadcast to affection options like Italian hoagies (Brits sometimes accent it “who-gee”), craven parm, and buzz pork with broccoli rabe. Integral to the Philly character as these specialties may be, it’s the beneath actual touches that drive home aloof how abnormally our confined accomplish from the archetypal London watering hole.

Yanks tend to use the agreement synonymously, but there’s a acumen fatigued amid confined and pubs in London. There, a “bar” is a absolute appellation — “any allowance acclimated for the confined of alcohol with a adverse abaft which angle the servers,” per beer able Martyn Cornell’s Strange Tales of Ale — while “pub” agency article specific. Accessible houses were historically congenital out of inns with apartment for rent; again and now, they accomplish at added bashful hours and serve a narrower (and cheaper) alternative than a wider-reaching enactment might. In Central London, they’ve got names like the ­Blackfriar, Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese, and the Marquis of Granby and are accessory with Victorian glass, aphotic woodwork, assumption fixtures, and added antique touches.

They’re actually places to cesspool a few pints, but the pub is additionally a go-to for association events, ancestors parties and assignment functions. If this doesn’t complete all that altered from your local, you’re acrimonious up the aforementioned cilia Teti did — autonomous acquisition places matter, whether you alive a Kensington Palace or off a Kensington El stop. “A pub is aloof as abundant a allotment of their attitude as a adjacency bar would be a allotment of ours,” he says.

Expats from the States anon booty to Passyunk Avenue, but it’s the absorbed reactions from London’s aboriginal bubbler citizenry that allege best vividly to the activity of Philadelphia, the Brand.

This bar, by design, does being that flummoxes the natives. English bubbler is done in rounds, with associates of the affair demography turns clearing up for everyone; Passyunk Avenue appropriately runs alone tabs. Bar stools are an aberrant afterimage in London pubs; the bar is usually aloof for walkups. Some Brits accept been so befuddled by the basement that they agilely ask Teti if they’re acclimatized to absorb the stools, and for how long.

“The archetypal London pub can feel decidedly isolating,” says beer biographer Claire Bullen, a Philly acquaintance of abundance who confused to England a few years ago and absitively to stick around, earning an MA forth the way. “Pubs are the best fun aback you appear with bodies you already know.”

But whether it’s the close-quarters layout, the hyper-specific decor, or the abiding beck of babbling adopted barter — one night, I met grads of Upper Dublin High School and Merion Mercy Academy after abrogation my bench — it’s bright that Londoners acquisition Passyunk Avenue both abstract and refreshing.

I already addled up a chat with four bodies built-in at the Nick Foles Bar: Eric and Georjenna, Temple grads who were visiting, and Georjenna’s sister, Salina, and English brother-in-law, David.

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“If you go into a pub in the U.K. and you alpha talking to someone, they’ll apparently attending at you like you’re a agitated looney,” David told me — affable real-time assay I did not aces up on at the time. “It’s aloof not the done thing.”

I’m so acclimatized to rolling out “not all Philadelphians!” reals in aegis of the city’s acceptability for bluntness that it never occurred to me it could be acclimated as a business tool, a change at allowance with the acutely captivated assemblage of English standoffishness. Passyunk Avenue is a abode area complete strangers feel adequate talking to one another, which Teti says abashed his English workers in the aboriginal going. But his employees, at Teti’s urging, are the absolute abstruse to abatement non-Philly guests into the groove. He’s not aloof hawking hoagies — he’s channeling a way of life.

Once neophytes apprentice what Philly is, area it’s located, what we eat and whom we basis for, a holistic account of our city’s ability starts advancing into focus. It’s again up to Passyunk Avenue’s front-of-house agents to act as ambassadors for our town.

In England, area servers are paid a collapsed allowance and angled isn’t accepted at pubs, “Your job is to booty orders, accompany them to people, accomplish abiding they’re right, booty their money and go,” says Teti. “Check your personality at the door. But for us, personality is everything.”

The apprehension has rubbed off on Teti’s English staffers, like Rob Findlay, a Newcastle built-in who identifies similarities amid his hardscrabble hometown and Teti’s — admitting never accepting been to Philly. “It’s an underdog city, and abounding bodies from the North can chronicle to that,” he says. “It’s the aforementioned as what we’re like.”

It additionally helps that there are actually a few bodies with Philly roots in Teti’s employ, including Baczar, Pasterino — the Mummer, who tended bar on South Street for years — administrator Jessi Riley and several others. While I adhere at the bar for hours, I watch them chaff their way through hordes of agnostic Brits, employing aggregate from analytical question-asking to acquiescent teasing. This approach, banal to us, actually slays there.

Teti’s pride-driven action — that the burghal he grew up admiring can be sold, in all its high-calorie brashness, to a association acclaimed for its abstemiousness — is assuming returns. He’s in the action of developing a additional location, while his aboriginal continues to accomplish an impression; on Trip­Advisor, Passyunk Avenue is a accoutrement in the top 10 best-rated restaurants in London, out of a acreage of added than 18,600 venues.

But there’s accession cast of acknowledgment that ability be the arch indicator he’s on the appropriate track. Teti afresh accustomed an email from a Blue Bell woman who’d apparent images of Passyunk Avenue online. “There’s one photo with a Providence banderole blind abaft the bar,” she wrote. “Any adventitious you could alter Providence and accommodate all the Big Five Schools? Specifically, Villanova (reigning NCAA academy champions), or Temple, La Salle, St. Joe’s and Penn.”

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If that’s not Philly for you, I don’t apperceive what is.

Published as “London Calling” in the November 2018 affair of Philadelphia magazine.

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