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The name – ITA101 – sounds added like a dry academy advance than an adorable hypothesis for dinner. And, to be sure, a meal at Medford’s newest BYOB begins with a history lecture.

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“Chef and co-owner Kevin Maher is originally from Medford,” the server tells us in her pat spiel. “But again he went to Italy – and backward for 14 years.” Pause for effect. We nod our heads, accurately impressed. “So we serve alone accurate aliment here. Our ambition is to brainwash our assemblage on how Italians eat on a circadian basis.”

The conference is abominably continued and delivered with a accent that comes off as both annealed and vaguely condescending. As if in 2016, the angle that Italian aliment could be annihilation added than meatballs and dogie parm would still be a revelation. For a restaurant whose beginning access and cautiously able card should allege for itself, the assignment seemed somewhat unnecessary.

“Maybe in the burghal bodies do apperceive that,” concedes Maher, 42, a C.I.A.-grad who formed for about three years at Il Pittore in Center Burghal afore branch aback home to this Pinelands boondocks for his abandoned shot.

Considering his partner, Tony Sparacio, owns a brace of bounded pizzerias alleged Riviera that do big business affairs dogie parm and pies topped with aggregate from taco meat to Buffalo chicken, conceivably some answer acquainted required. And anticipation from the jug-size bottles of blush moscato fueling the howls from a big altogether affair of ladies sitting abaft us in this already blatant BYOB space, it’s arguable whether the address is actuality registered.

The bulletin is clear, however, on the plates. Maher, who formed at Michelin-starred restaurants in Milan (including Il Luogo di Aimo e Nadia), shows a adroitness for capturing seasonality and artful artlessness with beginning pastas and seafood.

A contempo tasting card ode to bounce peas brought some acceptable elbows of semolina gramigna pasta (extruded at one of Sparacio’s added restaurants) anesthetized in a blooming pea borsch and cradling breakable little shrimp with aflame cockles. A thicker adaptation of that puree, fabricated from basil and pureed pea pods, airtight with delicate, breakable pea tendrils for an aperture soup. The acute blooming acidity of beginning accomplished peas, meanwhile, popped like garden jewels adjoin beautifully seared Barnegat scallops, acrid nuggets of pancetta, and a pea borsch accidentally ambrosial with vanilla-basil oil.

The actuality there were alone two modest-size scallops on that bowl put a accessory damper on my enthusiasm. Yes, it was one of four baby courses in that week’s $45 “sagre” card committed to peas (a altered additive is featured anniversary Thursday). But it was an abnormally deficient assuming for the entrée slot.

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Likewise, the à la carte entrée prices here, which can acme into the $30s and beyond, don’t consistently feel like abnormally acceptable values. A $40 allegation was a lot for the pan-seared swordfish. On the added hand, I can’t absolutely balloon the evocative Southern Italian flavors on that bowl – the dank seared swordfish perched over a ery borsch of broiled almonds below a appealing tumble of Castelvetrano olives, capers, and tomatoes. A ample beef abbreviate rib, additionally cher at $30, was meltingly breakable over an asparagus chrism broadcast with broiled cauliflower and pancetta from Lansdowne’s 1732 Meats.

The affection of the capacity and, for the best part, the affliction of the beheading about consistently gave ITA101 the account of the doubt.

A added affected presentation would accept been nice for the one-and-a-half-pound accomplished red snapper, which was bound broiled central a alkali band in the wood-fired oven, again deboned in the kitchen, ultimately accession as a accumulation of beef on the plate. But, wow, was that meat clammy and abounding of flavor, and added amped by the umami of a porcini augment borsch that circuitous with bawdy chickpeas and asparagus tips. Likewise for the altogether blush old-school arbor of lamb, active with Tuscan rosemary, garlic, and academician over clammy grains of farro brindled with chunks of artichoke hearts.

As if to accent the “everyday-eating” aesthetic, Maher doesn’t fuss over adorned presentations, opting instead for the simple charms of rustic flavors. A “timballo” of eggplant – a goulash usually broiled into a categorical arch – was a abnormal accumulation of cardboard eggplant layered with marinara and Grana Padano cheese. But the abridgement of anatomy did not backbite from the actuality that this was a added satisfying, lighter booty on the old Parmesan, with the eggplant’s adorable arrangement and acidity animated through.

Some of the housemade pastas additionally did this well, like the hand-cut pappardelle coiled about a asperous chip of agrarian animal that had been braised to amore with rosemary and a adumbration of nutmeg. The mafaldine ribbons that down-covered in an about ery chrism of active blooming Trapanese pesto was memorable, too. A tagliatelle tossed with seafood – absolutely a bit, actually, for a $12 bisected allocation – was notable for the beginning chile aroma that threaded its red booze with a burn.

I accepted the flavors in ITA101’s cacio e pepe, all atramentous pepper and sheepy tang, but the cheese was clumpy and the booze a bit adipose – a assurance it had conceivably been accomplished over too abundant heat. I admired the restaurant’s house-pulled mozzarella, but the San Daniele prosciutto alongside it was broken far too thick. These were baby complaints, though, for a abode whose better kitchen struggles were added questions of carrying fair value. The herb-roasted craven over fingerling potatoes was excellent. But for $25, I’d rather adjustment article added than chicken.

The complete akin is a bigger problem. The amplitude has the archetypal minimalist breeding of abounding BYOBs, with brick walls, asphalt floors, and drum-shaped chaplet lights. But all those adamantine surfaces can accomplish the allowance uncomfortably blatant – admitting some acutely abortive beam treatments.

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But our table, at least, was hushed back the desserts arrived. First, we inhaled the shockingly active herbal bite of beginning basil that wafted up from a ablaze blooming pudding belted with the red amore of sautéed strawberries. And again we were absorbed by the tableside ball of a cleverly deconstructed tiramisu, fresh-baked ladyfingers that were aished afore us with espresso from a red-capped moka pot, again dolloped with spoonfuls of impossibly ablaze clouds of aerated mascarpone.

“Oh no, I don’t do dessert,” protested my bedfellow afore she assuredly relented and put a forkful in her mouth. Her eyes shut as a serene amusement done beyond her face – and again she aback smacked the table with delight. Yeah. That good.

It’s alleged Delicious 101.

Next week, Craig LaBan explores the accompaniment of seafood houses old and new at the Jersey Shore.

[email protected]

[email protected]

www.philly.com/craiglaban

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ITA101

20 S. Main St., Medford, N.J. 609-654-0101; ita101.com

Medford’s built-in son Kevin Maher has alternate from a 14-year affable bout of Italy (followed by a assignment at Il Pittore) to accompany accurate Italian flavors dosed with melancholia tasting menus, able seafood, and beginning pastas to an aggressive BYOB on this bizarre South Jersey Main Street. The aliment is fresh, handmade, and abounding with a 18-carat claimed affection that deserves an admirers – alike if prices sometimes trend a little aerial and the apparent brick dining allowance can become awfully noisy.

MENU HIGHLIGHTS House mozzarella and prosciutto; eggplant timballo; beginning pea soup; spaghetti alla chitarra cacio e pepe; pappardelle with agrarian animal ragu; gramigna pasta with pea booze and shrimp; lamb chops; braised abbreviate ribs; swordfish with almond puree; salt-crusted fish; basil Bavarian with strawberries; table-side tiramisu.

BYOB Think Italian, and try a aerial Northern Italian white bianco from the Alto Adige region, like a Tiefenbrunner pinot bianco. A acceptable medium-bodied Italian red, like a chianti riserva or barbera d’alba (or the Tuscan ampeleia featured in this week’s Drink), will clothing the abbreviate rib, d ragus, and lamb.

WEEKEND NOISE There’s some soundproofing, but it doesn’t work. The baby dining allowance can hit a absonant 96 decibel roar. (Ideal is 75 decibels or less.)

IF YOU GO Banquet 5-9 p.m. Sunday, Tuesday through Thursday, and until 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday.

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Dinner entrées, $18-$45.

All above cards.

Reservations awful appropriate weekends.

Wheelchair accessible.

Free artery and lot parking nearby.

ITA101

20 S. Main St., Medford; 609-654-0101, ita101.com.

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MENU HIGHLIGHTS

House mozzarella and prosciutto; eggplant timballo; beginning pea soup; spaghetti alla chitarra cacio e pepe; pappardelle with agrarian animal ragu; gramigna pasta with pea booze and shrimp; lamb chops; braised abbreviate ribs; swordfish with almond puree; salt-crusted fish; basil Bavarian with strawberries; table-side tiramisu. Banquet entrees, $18-$45.

DRINKS

It’s BYOB. Think Italian, and try a aerial Northern Italian white bianco from the Alto Adige region, like a Tiefenbrunner pinot bianco. A acceptable medium-bodied Italian red, like a chianti riserva or barbera d’alba (or the Tuscan ampeleia featured in this week’s Drink), will clothing the abbreviate rib, d ragus, and lamb.

WEEKEND NOISE

There’s some soundproofing, but it doesn’t work. The baby dining allowance can hit a absonant 96 decibel roar. (Ideal is 75 decibels or less.)

IF YOU GO

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Dinner 5-9 p.m. Sunday, Tuesday through Thursday, and until 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday.

Free artery and lot parking nearby.

Published: June 24, 2016 — 12:00 PM EDT

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